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0 Pennsylvania Railroad B60b Baggage Car
Neil asks readers for advice:
“I am looking to buy an ACCURATE model of a Pennsylvania Railroad B60b baggage car to replace the one in Lionel’s Lindbergh Special set. Lionel’s isn’t even a PRR type! Does anyone know a website where I could purchase one?”
Add you comment below.
HO Wiring For DCC
Ray asks readers for guidance:
"I plan to wire my first DCC layout soon; however, I dont know what to do about lighting. Shall I get a separate power supply and put all the lighting on it and if so do I need terminal blocks to separate and reduce wiring runs? I don't mind if the lights are on all the time because I will be using a reduced voltage.
Also, my turnout motors should be to toggle switches and hopefully to a panel which I haven't done yet. Is there anything I need to know about running 24 AWG on a 4ft x 8ft layout like mine?"
Reader can suggest solutions below.
TT Scale English Steam Locomotives
Victor asks readers:
“I am looking for English steam locomotives in TT scale, does anybody know of a source anywhere in the EU.”
Comment below.
Cutting Track
Don asks readers:
“What kin”d of saw is best for cutting O model railroad track?”
Add your answer below.
0 Scale Insulated Track
Herb asks readers:
“What does a insulated track do? What does a isolated track do? What track do I use to operate a crossing gate?
Comment below.
Manufacturer of Code 80 Rails
Steve asks readers for their opinions on code 80 rail :
“Which manufacturer makes the best code 80 rail in HO gauge and which one in N gauge? By best, I mean which nmanufacturers track has the best run characteristics: (1) Stays clean the longest, (2) Built with very uniform distance between rails in both straight and curved pieces, and (3) Maintains dimensions between rails during use in a layout.
Add your comment below.
Dual Power Pack Control
Jeff doesn’t say what scale he is operating, but he does have an electrical question for readers:
“For reasons too complicated to discuss here, I have two power packs (transformers) operating on my layout. One is for the mainline and the other is for the yard. My question is can I create a fire or electrical hazard in some way if I have both power packs controlling the same section of track? Fearing this possibility, I created an engine length transition track section between the two operating areas (ie the main line and yard area). This section is electrically isolated from each side and is controlled with a double pole, double throw, center off toggle switch. When a train has to move from the mainline into the yard (or vice versa), I switch the toggle so that the mainline power pack is feeding power to the transition section. Once the engine has fully entered the transition section, I flip the toggle so that the yard power pack is controlling the transition track. Is there a better way to do this or am I just being too cautious?”
Jeff, please be aware that the opinions of readers are simply personal opinions. You must always seek proper professional advice from a registered electrician if you think there could be a risk of fire, or someone getting an electric shock. We do not accept any responsibility for personal opinions expressed by readers on this blog.
50 Year Old Lionel Diesel Locomotives
Bob has a question for anyone who can help him with his old Lionel locomotives:
“I just dug out my Lionels from the garage after 50 (that’s right, 50) years. I hooked up my ZW to a circle of old O27 track to test out my GP-7 diesel. I got nothing.
The green power light went on but no juice seemed to hit the rails. The red circuit breaker light not indicate a short. I switched the hook-up wire from the U-D posts to the U-A and got a small spark from the loco’s left front wheels but nothing else. I don’t have a voltage meter to check to see if the ZW is providing any power.
Admittedly the track may not be conducting well after all these years, but I thought I should get some kind of response from the engine which had always performed so flawlessly when I was a kid. Does anyone have any ideas as to how I can determine if the issue is the transformer or the GP-7?”
Add your comments below.
O Electrical Wiring
Ronnie is new to the hobby and needs some experienced guidance:
“As I understand it, 027 turn out switches have 3 wires and the trun-out derives power directly from the track – is that correct? How can I wire indicator lights on my panel to indicate Turn or Straight? I have a KW transformer and wonder if I can wire them directly from the 14V post? I need the simplest solution as this is my first layout. Thank you.”
If you would like to give Ronnie some advice, then please use the comments link below. I’m sure he would appreciate it.
Wheel Rims On S American Flyer
Glenn is hoping someone will have some suggestions to help him solve his train problem:
“I own a vintage American Flyer #350 4-6-2 Royal Blue Steam Engine. The drive wheel rims(tires) seem to be loose and when the engine makes a turn the metal frame (on the inside of the wheels) touches the rail and creates a short and pops the circut bearker. The short sometimes happens on the straight tracks because the engine kind of wobbles sometimes. Any suggestions will be helpful to resecure the wheel rims or if I am mistaken on the loose rims please advise on corrective action.”
Comment below.
DCC Reversing
John asks readers:
“With dual main lines parallel to each other, and with the inside main reversable, do I need a reversing module between crossovers? If so how would that work since the crossovers are of minimum length?”
Readers can comment below.
Lionel Kit
Joe asks readers:
“Did Lionel make an airport (not a kit to put together out of plastic)? If so does someone know where one can be purchased?”
Comment below.
S Scale Crossings – Getting The Gate To Stay Down
John is hoping someone will help him with this problem:
"I am reviving my AF layout. What track clip do I need to make the automatic grossing gate accessory STAY DOWN while the train goes through it? The one for the flashing lights doesn't work. Do any of you use anything else like infra-red or some other way to trigger the gate to stay down until the train goes completely through for realism sake? I appreciate any help you can give!"
Comment below.
O-gauge Electrical Question
Al has a question on O-gauge. Please comment below if you can help him.
I am building my first permanent highrail layout using an MTH Digital Command System ( Proto 2.0 ) linked via a star pattern power distribution network with Gargraves track.
1. How do I wire Lionel and Z-stuff signals without having to use the bulky under track contacts?
2. What is the best way to divide the track plan into electrically isolated blocks ? I cannot seem to find any Gargraves nonconductive track pins anywhere.
Many thanks to anyone that can help.
Fleischmann N Gauge Locomotive
Richards wants help with his Fleischmann N gauge tank loco and asks readers:
“I have one Fleischmann N gauge tank loco (7000) which I had chipped by the supplier. I want to buy two more, 703002 and 707001 (also known as 7071 on some sites). There is currently quite a waiting list to have locos chipped in the UK so I want to chip these myself. Are there any particular pit-falls I should be aware of with Fleischmann locos? I plan to use a CT Eletronik chip, possibly a DCX74z.”
Comment below.
G Scale Motor Power
Tapan asks readers:
“How much RPM is required in a locomotive of G – Scale motor?”
Comment below.
Derails On Radius
David asks readers for help and asks:
“I have an ho 4-6-4 with a tender that has 2 , 6 wheel trucks and a 2-10-2 engine with tender. Both are steam. For some reason they both keep falling off track. Is there anyway to adjust them to make them stop derailing? They are running on standard 9 inch rails and radius and they only derail on the turns. Both are bachmann. Can someone please help me?”
Comment below.
Make Your Own Oil Tanks
Here is a tip sent in by Jeremy (a member of the online Model Train Club).
I used some old tins from the kitchen cupboard to make an oil tank depot. I found an old coffee tin and another one that contained drinking chocolate. They were the type that you press shut (not the ones you need a can opener for).
I screwed the lids to the layout which meant I could easily remove the tanks at any time by just pulling them out from the lids (which stayed fixed to the layout base). I painted the tins and applied some graphics I printed out from the internet. However before I printed them out I used my computer graphics program to add a couple of ladders and some rivets to the design. They look so authentic.
The are lots more clever tips and ideas for Model Train Club members and right now you can get 30 Days Free Access to the Model Train Club with the Scenery And Layout Construction Ideas e-book (see link at the right).
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