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How To Model Water
Mason posted this question:
“I know there are lots of fancy ways to model water on a layout, but I am wanting to model a couple of little patches of water a bit bigger than puddles in a sort of ditch on the side of my little country road. I don’t need much water, but I want it to look a bit muddy and stagnant. What material or method should I use without going to the expense of buying resin?”
Using Tiny Screws on Track Ties
John P sent in this tip to share:
“I was surprised a friend of mine who has trains didn’t know to do this, so I’m sharing it on the off chance some others don’t either. My tip is…I make use of very small screws for track ties. By using screws it is easier if I need to lift the track for repairs, or readjustment. My drill has a screwdriver attachment for the crosshead screws which keeps them in position until the tiny screws are nearly fully screwed in. I can then release the screw from the screwdriver grip. It is then a simple matter of a few final turns to securely seat the screw in place. I have always done this, but it seems not everyone does?”
Add your suggestions or comments below.
Polarity With Reverse Loops
Craig W sent in this tip:
“With a DPDT switch you can alter the polarity manually when on a reverse loop. It can be done with the track before the reverse loop. You would need to double insulate each end of the rail loops.
DCC requires insulating each rail at both ends as mentioned previously and having an auto-reversing circuit mounted to feed the reverse loop. You won’t notice the engine slow down whereas with DC you would likely stop the engine, change polarity to the track, reverse power to that track to proceed. However, when using DCC the reversing circuit is the way to go for this.”
If you would like to comment on what Craig said, then post your thoughts below.
Fond Memories of Yesteryear Replicated in Miniature on this Layout
Those were the days!
You are most welcome to share this link with your friends by email or post the link on your website or Facebook page. http://www.modeltrainclub.org
Is It Okay To Use Pecos Code 075?
Nigel writes I am into DCC and my question is:
“Can anyone help me out? I do have all ‘Peco code 100 tracks {curves, straight & point} and I also have code 075-Double/Single Slip Crossings; And I want to know, with some of my old polling stock, will this be all right with Pecos code 075? Or will the deep wheel flange on the old stock cause derailments? They also do Electrofrog long crossings And Insulfrog crossing in code 075. I have one Insulfrog Crossing in code 100”
Just a reminder to all readers that you can have your question published by using one of the ASK A QUESTION links under each post.
Electrical Pickup Troubles with Baldwin Modern 440 Locomotive
Martin asks for help:
“I am having electrical pickup troubles with my Baldwin Modern 440. The tender sound will work when I disconnect the tender and pins from the loco, that is until I touch the tender or attempt to move it. The sound sometimes works when I fidget with the tender. I don’t know what to do.”
Free Train Room Signs
Download your FREE train room signs from https://www.modelbuildings.org
You’ll find the link in the Railroad Resources Category in the top NAV bar on the website.
Workable Grade For Lionel Engines
Mason posted:
“I have a work area of around 16 foot by 6 foot and plan for 2 levels with my trains operating on both. I am thinking of 6″ to 8″ between the two levels, so am wondering what grade and how many inches of track would look and work best. I don’t want to waste space, but still want it to look natural and not cramped. Plus any tips on figuring the riser heights as they step up the ladder would be a help. Thanks in advance.”
Adding DCC Sound to a GP30 Diesel
Allan writes:
“I have a GP30 Diesel that is a few years old but has DCC onboard. I thought about converting it to DCC sound. Looking at the engine I’m not convinced adding a speaker is feasible without a complete disassemble and removal of parts from the frame halves? Has anyone attempted this before?”
Add your answer or comment below. Click COMMENTS to see what others have to say.
Separating Glued Plastic Parts
An unusual question from Rick who has OO trains:
“I have recently bought used Triang/Hornby hopper bridge parts. Unfortunately, the two R85 supports that I want had been glued to the bridge. I have no idea what type of glue has been used. I have read methods of unglueing including deep freezing for a few hours before prying apart, but I would welcome comments only from anyone who has attempted to separate R85s from R82 – successfully or failed, please. My model is chilling out in my freezer while I await replies with bated breath.”
Understanding CV Addresses and Values
Mickey models HO and his question is:
“I am just having trouble understanding CVs. I have a passenger train with both working engines at either end. I would love some advice please? I have another 2 that start up but don’t move.”
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