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Can Kato Unitrack Be Used With Other Track Brands?
John S writes:
“Before I buy stuff for my planned N gauge railway I want to check if Kato Unitrack can be used with other track brands like Atlas? I know Unitrack is quite expensive and a bit plastic in look, but it sounds pretty durable and foolproof. Any comments if you have used it and can the plastic look be easily disguised?”
Add your questions, comments, or answers below using the ASK A QUESTION or COMMENTS link.
Old S scale American Flyer Needs Cleaning – How?
Reece is hoping for help with this question:
“I inherited an old S scale American Flyer set which looks like about 50+ years old. It is a Missouri Pacific set with 6 cars. I haven’t run it yet and am hoping all the dust that covers the cars won’t result in running issues. If so, I will just keep it in the original box or use the cars for staging. Is there a way to remove the dust without causing damage?”
You can submit your own question using the ASK A QUESTION link below, or COMMENT on this post using the COMMENTS link below.
Calculating Grades – Graphic to share with friends
Model railroad grades are expressed as a percentage by dividing the rise over the run.
For example, a 3″ rise in 100″ run of model railroad track is 3% (3/100). Put another way, if you have 100 inches of track and your train climbs one inch, then your grade is 1 percent. When 25 inches of trackage rises 1 inch, your grade would be 4 percent. However, be aware your track will need to transition from the flat level to the gradient and back (see graphic). This will add to the run needed for your given gradient.
Real-world railroads might have three grade classifications: 0.8 percent to 1 percent which is considered ‘light grade’; 1 percent to 1.8 percent would be ‘heavy grade’; and anything steeper than 1.8 percent would be ‘mountain grade’ track. Real railroads operate for efficiency, whereas visual aesthetics are factors to consider on model railroads.
On a model railroad, grades can be used to enable more movements in a smaller space, and to make a train layout more visually appealing. Having a train pass on a track over another on a bridge can look particularly impressive. Even though grades on model train layouts are often steeper than on real railroads, grades greater than 2% can still pose problems. If you are using tight radius curves that can compound grades. Where possible, grades are best kept below 3%, however, some layout can and do accommodate steeper grades.
Grades on model railroads are generally steeper because, unlike on a real railroad where very long trains operate, there isn’t usually enough space to replicate a gradual gradient of several miles. However, the same principles need to be considered: the weight of your locomotive, the power of your locomotive, along with the weight and number of cars in your trains. A weak loco won’t be capable of pulling many cars up a grade. The steeper the grade is, the harder it will be. The greater the weight, the greater the traction… which means the wheels on your lighter locomotives could slip on grades that heavier locomotives can climb. Another thing to be aware of is that larger-scale locos will generally cope with steep grades better than smaller loco scales. As an example, a powerful N scale locomotive might pull around 14 to 16 cars up a 4 percent grade. Some train enthusiasts might think 14 to 16 cars is too short a train consist.
Feel free to share this graphic with friends, on Facebook, or on your website if you think it will be of help.
Can Couplers Be Used Universal Together?
Gavin is starting out in N scale and asks those in the know:
“Although I have enough space for a small HO layout I am going N scale instead. It will allow me to pack more train movements and scenery in the same space. I’m starting out with a Kato locomotive because they’re well detailed. My question… Will a Kato loco couple with other brand cars in particular Micro-Trains and Accurate, or will I need to stick with Kato?
Car Capacity for Industries and Yards
Warren posted this question:
“I’m planning on extending the ‘L” part to my HO layout bringing the end size to 10ft x 6ft L shaped. The bulk of the extension will be for my new yard but I don’t want to have it bigger than it needs to be for efficient operation. I would be interested in feedback on suggested car capacity because I don’t want it too congested. I have about 25% capacity in my industries if that helps.”
Add a comment under this post if you can assist Warren.
Types of Flex Track
Mike M asks:
“Hello, I really hope you can help me with a couple of quick questions. Will a HO Marklin coal tipper fit on a flexible HO track? Also, is there a flexible HO track that is a little taller than what you usually get at hobby stores? I have a very old tin plate made in japan train that will not run on my HO tracks. The wheel flanges are a little too big so it hits the cross ties. Thanks for your time! I am not a model train expert and am having trouble finding answers for a HO train project I’m working on.”
Joining Power Districts and Power Boosters
Keith has this electrical question:
“I am planning an HO DCC layout. It will have three (3) power districts with a control center and two (2) power boosters. I am planning a reverse loop joining to two (2) different power districts and thus different power boosters. Will this be a problem?”
Removal of Rubber Traction Wheel Rim
Rudy asks:
“Hi, if I remove the rubber traction wheel rim on my new HO Piko V60 DB Diesel, will doing that give ‘that’ axel, full electric contact on both wheels, as it crosses the frog, and prevent that slight hesitation? I’ve noticed that if I flip the engine around, it will cross the frog smoothly because the traction tire ‘now’ crosses the frog leaving the other wheel contacting the exposed rail. It’s a small shunting engine, and I only pull 2 or 3 cars with it, so I may not need the traction tire anyway. Any thoughts on this?“
Wiring Turnouts and Control Panel
Ray asks:
“I want to switch my HO scale turnouts with a single switch to also supply power the track and illuminate an LED on the control panel. I am using PECO motors on PECO track. I think that a continuous supply to PECO motors causes them to burn out. I have a number of double pole double throw switches but I am unsure how to wire it to prevent motor burnout. Any thoughts would be appreciated.”
Fitting New Section Of Track Into Gap
Ryan asks:
“We relocated house and moved my layout without any major damage except one section of Atlas Code 83 track. I have a new section to insert, but with joiners, it is longer than the gap it needs to fit. How do I cut the track and ties etc?”
Hiding Joins Between Track Modules
Neil has started work on his HO railroad and posted his first question:
“I’ve built the first module on my planned 2ft x 12ft layout and have suddenly realized the problem of hiding the joins between each module. I hadn’t really given it much thought until now. I doubt I will need to move my layout much, but at some stage, I will most likely come up against the inevitable.
I’m interested in what others have done to disguise the joins between modules. Is it best to avoid a straight line join for separations between the modules… perhaps a bend, or jigsaw type join to make the lines between my modules less obvious? I know that would make the framework more complex, or should I just position scenery to disguise the joins? If so, any ideas? Also, any thoughts of correct procedure for accessories, track, signals and controls between modules? Much appreciate in advance.”
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