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Difficulties Coupling and Uncoupling Smaller Scale Model Trains
Tony asks:
“I have never had a go with N scale, but have done HO operations. I raise this because I’m about to go with either HO or N scale for my new layout. Yard operations is what I like doing best so I assume with N scale I can probably do more in a smaller space. My reservation is uncoupling and coupling rolling stock and whether N scale is as easy as HO, or will I encounter more problems. I just thought someone might enlighten me. Thanks in advance.”
You can read and post your comments directly under this post.
Here’s How to Build an HO Scale, OO, or N Scale Grain Elevator For Your Model Train Layout
Download – Print – Build your own scale model farm buildings. See the range here
Why Some Model Train Layouts Are Too Predictable
The reason some model train layouts turn out better than others often comes down to realism and aesthetics. To look realistic and not “toylike,” a layout should not be too predictable in design. A mainline running close to the edge of a standard 4ft x 8ft space and then curving at the end to form an oval will look “toylike” unless there is clever scenery or props to disguise the predictable track configuration. Where possible, it usually looks more realistic to include gentle curves (just like on a real railroad) and position the mainline at a slight angle from the edge of the benchwork. Hiding the curves with tunnels or hill cuts effectively distracts the eye from the fact that the train is running around an oval.
Another alternative is to make the layout point-to-point. Real railroads work this way so why not yours? Unless your whole purpose is to run the train in a continuous loop, a point-to-point layout featuring two separate industries or towns that exchange goods is the most realistic way you can operate. Remember, though, to figure out how to turn the locomotives around at each end. A turntable, wye, or reversing loop may be necessary but they also offer additional challenges as well as interest and convenience. The available space is obviously a big factor to also consider.
Engine With Poor Smoke Output
Fred has a Vision line Big Boy and asks readers:
“I am looking for a video or info on removing the shell on my Vision Line Up Big Boy. I want to replace the smoke elements. It was sent twice to Lionel only to last for a short time. I have replaced elements on my diesel, but I am apprehensive about this large steam engine. Thanks.”
Post your answers or suggestions under this post if you can assist Fred.
Flex Track On Module Joint OUCH!!!
Ryan shares this question:
“I know I got things wrong when I built my layout with 2ft x 4ft modules and had some flex track split on the curve. I shouldn’t have used flex track on the module joint…I know that now OUCH!! Is there a quick fix, or do I need to relay the track?”
If you can assist Ryan, please add your suggestion or comments under this post.
Is Your Track too close to the edge of the benchwork?
Space limitations may tempt you to run the track close to the edge of the benchwork. Doing so could allow for an extra track, but the big risk is that your prize loco could end up wrecked on the floor.
The accident might not be the result of an operational derailment. Instead, it might simply be because someone caught the train with their elbow, or perhaps an earthquake shook it free. When gravity comes into play the only direction is down, and the only thing stopping your loco will be the solid floor which could be several feet away.
Trains generally look longer when they disappear momentarily behind a tree, some vegetation or a structure. Where feasible, try and move the track at least 2-3 inches back from the edge of the benchwork and add some small obstacles between the track and the edge. Use some well-glued miniature bushes, a small slightly raised bank, a robust fence of some kind, or some clear acrylic plexiglass to form a physical barrier.
Old Wild Western and Mining Town Models to Make for Your HO, OO, or N scale Model Railroad
These mining and Wild West mining town buildings are not only fun to make but also historically realistic in detail. They are already pre-weathered to add character and authenticity to your railroad scene. They are easy to download and construct using scrap card and can be downloaded individually or in money-saving pack deals here https://www.modelbuildings.org/wild-west-mining Have fun! 👍
Adding Windows To Scale Model Buildings
This is an old video but it is still relevant today. I hope it inspires someone. Courtesy https://www.modelbuildings.org
Problem Solving S Curves
S-curves can be a railroader’s worst nightmare, yet they are a feature of many track plans because they can add interest to a layout. If you are going to add an S-curve, plan it carefully. That means that you need to have at least one straight section of track at as long as your longest car between the curves. Otherwise, regular derailments might become unwanted events on your layout. Fixing a problematic S-curve can be exceptionally hard once the track is permanently placed.
One of the most challenging placements for an S-curve is just beyond a turnout. Avoid having a curve in the opposite direction immediately after the turnout diverges. Follow the straight section between changes of direction practice mentioned in my post of 19 Nov 2024.
Modular Layout Recommendations
Charles is planning an N scale layout and asks:
“I’d like to build a 3-section layout that I can bring out at Christmas and set up in the living room for the holiday. A dogbone design is more or less what I had in mind. I don’t know how to set up the tracks that will span between the segments. I plan on putting it in places where I’ll have removable upright 2 or 3″ dia. dowels as studs throughout the layout so I can put a protective top on each section. The base will be a hollow door cut into 3 sections. I am looking for help, suggestions,etc. Thanks!”
If you can advise Charles, then please post your comments here.
Value of Second-Hand Engines and Rolling Stock
William asks readers:
“How much are second-hand engines and cars worth in HO? I have 17 engines and 88 cars and was wondering how best to sell them and how much I could ask for them? Does anyone have any experience selling used model train?”
Digitrax Control
Doug asks readers:
“I purchased an HO Scale Digitrax DCS 210 with a DT602 Controller. I can’t seem to get my engines to run and was wondering if there was a resource that could help me program in my engines so that I could run them? I know the engine works as when you put it on the track you can hear the motor running.”
Shimming Track For Bridge Abutments
Michael has HO scale and writes:
“I read abutments at the end of bridges serve to support the structure and foundations from the horizontal and vertical loads that get placed on them. I will need to determine the necessary heights and widths needed to support the bridge and track elevation, with my main concern being how to maintain level track over joins leading to and over the bridge. I am very much in the early planning stages so want to get my head around the process before I start out. Any help would be good. THX”
You can post your comments and suggestions under this post.
Careful Track Planning From The Beginning To Avoid Potential Problems Further Down The Track
There’s no point in spending time, effort, and money building what you thought was the perfect layout, only to modify it or start all over again. That is very different from improving it because there’s nothing wrong with making positive changes and expanding your railroad as and when your skills develop. Most model railroaders do that – their railroad progresses as they progress.
Making the track curves too tight
With the pressures of fitting everything into a layout, there will always be the temptation to make the curves tighter than they should be. This is typically fraught with problems, even if you have done some test runs with locomotives and cars around the curve.
Even if the trains run okay –
Does the tight track curve look natural? If you are modeling a modern-era railroad, rolling stock lengths are much longer these days than they were in the past. Long cars make the curves look even sharper than they are.
Would a real railroad have curves that tight? The answer to this is always a resounding “no.” Real railroad curve radii are much larger than can be accurately modeled in a reasonable space. The best that can be done is to make the curves as large as your space will permit, then use some scenic tricks to distract the viewers from the appearance.
What happens when you buy a new loco or longer car that won’t make it safely around the curve? This goes back to the era in which you choose to model. A setting with large late Steam-era articulated locos is not a good decision for a minimal space. Logging and mining or switching puzzle layouts with shorter rolling stock are better choices if your situation requires sharp curves.
The golden rule is this; make the minimum radius AT LEAST as large as recommended for the longest car you plan to run on your layout. That way you won’t have any regrets later.
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